New York’s best new restaurants of 2023

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to New York

This year marked New York City’s first full annus this decade without pandemic restrictions in place, and the message was resoundingly clear: NYC is back. 2023 hailed dozens of new restaurant openings across the boroughs; while some skewed more maximalist than ever — think big names, big prices and luxury ingredients (caviar bump, anyone?) — other fast favourites were lower-key, under-the-radar gems that you’ll probably have never heard of. So the nation’s culinary capital is indeed back, and more delicious than ever.

Café Carmellini

the fifth avenue hotel, 250 fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10001

After 30 years spent cooking in New York City, James Beard Award-winning chef Andrew Carmellini (of Locanda Verde, The Dutch and Bar Primi fame) is getting back to his fine-dining roots. With his early career spent in the kitchens of L’Arpège in Paris and San Domenico in Emilia-Romagna, Café Carmellini is the theatrical culmination of exquisite French and Italian cuisine — think Dover sole normande and rabbit cacciatore — in a setting that oozes Gilded Age glamour. The soaring double-height space occupies the ground floor of the equally chic Fifth Avenue Hotel, a Renaissance-style palazzo by McKim, Mead & White that has just opened to great fanfare. Towering trees, grand chandeliers that cast a sexy glow (everyone looks good here), crisp white linens and a sleek bar with potent Fifty-Fifty martinis (gin, Lillet, and rose petal jam) and a calvados Manhattan with Tuscan bitters all add to the sense of occasion. This one ticks the boxes for dinner and a show. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans, US correspondent, HTSI

Essential by Christophe

103 West 77th Street, New York, NY 10024

Essential by Christophe may sound like a 1990s eau de cologne, but it is by far the best restaurant to open on Manhattan’s Upper West Side in recent memory.

Chef Christophe Bellanca, Joël Robuchon USA’s former culinary director, gets to the essence of his ingredients. Dishes such as foie gras royale or black bass and shiitake chutney bring perfect execution without the pretension that blights some other Michelin-starred establishments. You will get almost as much pleasure from his $24 burger at the bar as from the $230 seven-course prix fixe, but the latter is worth it for the option to include the wine pairings of beverage director Andrea Morris, whose selections are as joyous as they are ingenious. Website; Directions
— Andrew Edgecliffe-Johnson, FT US news editor

The Bazaar by José Andrés

the ritz-carlton new york, nomad, 35 West 28th Street, New York, NY 10001

When you first enter The Bazaar, it is initially hard to see why it is sparking a fuss: the restaurant is found on the second floor of a hotel, with a bland decor and irritating background pop music.

But once you taste the food, it is clear why chef José Andrés’ latest creation is in the spotlight: this is one of the best dining experiences that I have ever encountered in Manhattan.

Its hallmark is a creative fusion between Spanish and Japanese cuisine. In some senses, this echoes the “sushi samba” genre that has already taken root in New York, imported from places such as Peru. But The Bazaar uses explicitly Spanish, not just Latin American, overtones: a humble pan con tomate is offered, which is superbly well executed, and a signature jamón is carved at the table, paired with Spanish sherries, and both traditional and modern renditions of olives.

Sake is also on the menu, as are sashimi, an eggplant miso dish, Wagyu beef and uni (sea urchin). And these different elements are repeatedly blended, not just in the dishes but drinks too. In short: a must-visit experience that is not just distinctive but utterly delicious too. And if the restaurant is full, the hubbub (thankfully) drowns out the background music. Website; Directions
— Gillian Tett, FT columnist and member of the editorial board

Tolo

28 Canal Street, New York, NY 10002, United States

Where the Lower East Side meets Chinatown, right where Canal Street starts, the executive chef of wine bar Parcelle has opened his own modern Chinese spot. His name is Ron Yan, and if you visit and sit at the bar you can watch him smash cucumbers with a hard pan, wince at the sound, then laugh. He’ll go into minute detail about how to make vegan XO sauce, and then drop small plates of Chinese dishes that look familiar and comforting (rice noodles, string beans with pork, sautéed water spinach, sweet and sour crispy fish) but taste electric and fresh. You’ll think: “What’s in that dressing — wasabi?” and make a note to try and recreate it at home. Your version won’t be nearly as good. But it will be reminiscent, and will make you want to return.

Tolo is also a fun vibe: the music is throwback hip-hop, the kitchen is energetic and on display, the hospitality is warm and casual, the wine list extensive (and run by Parcelle) and the food is upscale. It’s also a small menu, so order most of it and share. Website; Directions
— Lilah Raptopoulos, host, FT Weekend Life and Art podcast

Sailor

228 Dekalb Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11205

Sailor was one of the most buzzed-about restaurant openings in New York this year — a hype amplified by the perpetual impossibility of booking a table. On a Brooklyn block crowded with other cosy dining gems (the host is liable to ask if you’re sure you’re in the right restaurant), Sailor aspires to conjure the feeling of a local secret. It succeeds with a perfectly pitched seasonal menu (think lots of winter lettuces), a relaxed atmosphere and fantastic house wines for $9 a glass (an almost mythical price point in New York). The elevated small-plates spot is the staging ground for the comeback of April Bloomfield, the British chef who was felled during the #MeToo movement for failing to shield her staff from the abusive behaviour of shitty restaurant-industry men. Sailor has Bloomfield’s familiar touch of Englishness (PG Tips is available with pudding) and “the best martini I’ve had, ever”, according to my friend. With affable co-owner Gabriel Stulman front of house, Sailor’s ambitions are every city dweller’s dream: an intimate, neighbourhood spot that also happens to be world class. The trick will be whether neighbours (or travellers) will ever be able to get a table. Website; Directions
— Madison Darbyshire, FT investment correspondent

Ilis

150 Green Street, Brooklyn, NY 11222

A 4,500 sq ft warehouse in Greenpoint has been transformed into a 80-cover stunner with a theatrical kitchen at its centre — one that’s helmed by visionary Mads Reflund (Noma co-founder and chef) and his partner, Will Douillet (of Chicago’s Alinea). Based on the idea that everyone wants to be in the kitchen, Ilis — a blend of the Danish words for “fire” and “ice” — is an interactive concept that invites diners to experiment with seasonal ingredients and varied preparations. Abundant carts are brought around offering snacks, while centrepiece ingredients such as scallops, mushrooms, sustainable American bison, venison and wild boar are shown off in the open kitchen as part of a tour, then served in a variety of hot or cold ways according to preference. Tuna, for example, featured two ways on the opening menu; in a chilled sashimi dumpling with nasturtium or grilled with sunflower miso, soon to be replaced with other kinds of fish. The à la carte Market menu ($195) and the 10-12 course Field Guide menu ($395) both encourage patrons to mix with chefs, servers and sommeliers for a night full of flavour and chemistry in a Scandi-chic setting. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans

Roscioli NYC

43 MacDougal Street, New York, NY 10012

Roscioli’s new NYC outpost, despite its lighter, more contemporary interior, delivers the charm of its Roman mothership: the street-level dining room is also decorated with its signature jars of gourmet sott’olio, Italian cheese and salumi. And much like the original, the menu does not disappoint. The highlights were the amatriciana pasta and the lemon, butter and parmesan risotto; lighter fare satisfies too, such as the tasty Castelfranco salad and the impressive menu of various burratas. The torta di mandorle (almond cake) makes a perfect sweet finish to the meal. Downstairs, it’s a more formal affair: it’s tasting-menu only and you’ll need a reservation. Website; Directions
— Nessi Erkmenoglu, FT head of US revenue, luxury and B2C

Lupetto

1123 Broadway, New York, NY 10010

NoMad’s latest entry is Lupetto, a wood-fired Italian steakhouse where premium cuts of meat — a 40-ounce bone-in ribeye, an enormous pork porterhouse prepared porchetta style — and Neapolitan-style pizzas with perfectly crispy-chewy crusts (the Norma with eggplant and ricotta salata is a standout) are served in a vibrant setting by James Beard Award-winning Parts and Labor Design. From the team behind the popular La Pecora Bianca restaurants, Lupetto is all about the grill; from a charred Caesar salad to wood-roasted oysters and seared vegetable sides, the restaurant radiates warmth from its central oven. The high-ceilinged space seats 175 (with 80 more on the patio), but still manages to feel intimate. A winding bar specialises in classic cocktails including the Vesper, the Old Fashioned and, of course, an outstanding Negroni. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans

Spicy Nepal

39-35 47th Ave, Queens, NY 11104, United States

In Sunnyside, Queens, about 20 minutes by train from Times Square, a little Nepalese restaurant sits alone, with an orange sign and a crooked white curtain in the window. Inside it seems like a take-out joint: the lights are too bright, the tables are brown, the menu is long, the owners are around. Though it feels like you’ve entered someone’s home — someone who wasn’t expecting visitors, but opened his kitchen anyway. And thank goodness he did. The food is warming, authentic, and memorable.

Its chef, Bhawani Rai, is from the Himalayan countryside, and the menu reflects it. There is momo, of course. There’s thali: six small bowls on a silver tray, including a lentil daal, a perfect vegetable curry and a house-made radish cucumber pickle that I miss daily. The thali comes with either rice or dhindo, a shapeless brown blob of mashed millet that amazed me — our server said Sherpas eat it to stay strong. My favourite was the thukpa, a deep soup with house-made noodles, topped with mixed meat and egg, with broth that might resuscitate. Everything comes family style, so order a lot, ask your server for recommendations and share. Spicy Nepal is cheap (main dishes hover around $15), has an outdoor garden, and judging by the party of Nepalese guys who brought a bottle of whisky, is probably BYOB. Website; Directions
— Lilah Raptopoulos, host, FT Weekend Life and Art podcast

Le B

283 West 12th Street, New York, NY 10014

The iconic Beatrice Inn — a West Village staple that was the epitome of late-night glamour for almost 100 years — has been reborn as Le B, an equally chic spot from local favourite, chef Angie Mar (Les Trois Chevaux). The new space features dark navy walls and a spectacular Art Deco chandelier salvaged from Brooklyn’s Grand Prospect Hall, as well as rich marble, brass, and velvet finishes. The food is sultry as well: continental American cuisine meets fine French technique with Asian touches in dishes including a salade “chinoise” — a mix of bitter greens, mandarin, sesame, and a lace of “chicken rôti” — and sturgeon Charlemagne, a dazzling mille-feuille creation filled with layers of smoked sturgeon and crème fraîche, and topped with obsidian caviar. For decadent cocktails, inventive dishes and unparalleled people-watching, the intimate Le B offers the perfect uptown-downtown mix. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans

Jazba

207 Second Avenue, New York, NY 10003

Restaurateur Rajesh Bhardwaj of award-winning Indian restaurant Junoon brings Indian roadside-food culture to the East Village with his latest venture, Jazba (“passion” in Urdu). A selection of regional street specialties including green chilli chicken, a Coorg-inspired pandi curry and ros omelette with a Goan spice blend is creatively prepared by Michelin-starred chef Akshay Bhardwaj (Rajesh’s son); cocktails incorporate Indian botanicals and liqueurs. Menus are arranged by “Half Ticket” (appetisers) and “Full Ticket” (mains) in a nod to Indian rail travel. For hearty servings that are perfect for sharing and a bustling scene, Jazba is a vibrant addition to the neighbourhood. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans

Koloman

16 West 29th Street, New York, NY 10001 

Open for just over a year, this French-Viennese restaurant has developed a devoted fan base who flock to the former Breslin space for elevated comfort food in a sublime setting. Think classics like roast chicken for two with spaetzle, a light-as-a-feather cheese soufflé with mushroom jam and a flaky salmon en croûte — but all served in a homey, unpretentious way. Celery root tartare and red-wine-infused gougères are among the standout starters, while the perfectly crispy schnitzel and an elegant beef tenderloin presentation (complete with delicate potato pancakes) have made this place a Flatiron favourite. Koloman is the epitome of laid-back luxury, with the apple strudel the perfect ending to any festive evening. Website; Directions
— Christina Ohly Evans

Casa Bond

334 Bowery, New York, NY 10012

Casa Bond is almost at odds with itself, given its contemporary decor and cool NYC vibe. It might feel more authentic with a more casual setting given its rural Mexican flavours, rustic cuisine and friendly staff, in particular its managing partner Luis Villanueva. All of the spices used are brought in from across Mexico and the menu is influenced by the country’s coasts. The food will put a smile on your face, especially if you start with a deluxe Margarita (made with Casa Dragones tequila). The ribeye tiradito, a meat ceviche that is served with yuzu juice, was excellent, as was the pescado zarandeado (a dish of grilled fish), which came with fresh tortillas and a tasty annatto-guajillo sauce — though if you have to choose, the cochinita pibil (a traditional slow-roasted pork dish from Yucatán) or the enchiladas suizas (“Swiss-style”) might be even better options. Be sure to have a side of esquites, a dish made with corn, fresh cheese and lime. Website; Directions
— Nessi Erkmenoglu

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